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  • Pulley squeel

    Originally posted by WaltM
    So Kurt, whatcha gonna do?
    I haven't decided yet.

    I am putting that on the back burner for now.

    I fired up the VO on Tuesday to charge the battery and recirc the fluids. When it got warmed up, I have a repititous squeaking/squealing noise now emminating from the front of the engine. I can't tell where it is exactly coming from, whether it is the idler pulley or maybe a cam bearing (I hope not). The belt cover is masking/throwing off it's origin.

    Soooo, I will be pulling off the belt cover today or tomorrow to check it out.

    Say, since my factory Ford manual doesn't shed light on it, can someone tell me which way the crank bolt needs to be turned to loosen it? Some engines I have worked on before have had left handed threads, and I don't want to have to chase my tail, so to speak.
    That question is sorta off the canister topic here, but I don't want to have to start a thread for such a simple question.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Originally posted by NavySVO


    I have a repititous squeaking/squealing noise now emminating from the front of the engine. I can't tell where it is exactly coming from, whether it is the idler pulley or maybe a cam bearing (I hope not). The belt cover is masking/throwing off it's origin.
    I have the same problem. It starts up quiet and gets louder when it gets warm. My buddy thinks it's the top pulley.Let me know how you make out.
    Walt Mondschein
    1986 Silver SVO
    2005 Redfire GT

    Comment


    • #3
      thanks Walt

      BTW, I did a search......took me awhile.

      Lefty loosy-righty tighty on this one.

      Sorry admin...I usually DO use the search feature.

      Pretty good one too AT6svo's (Mike Malone) recommended method of removal was entertaining. Imrpovising to say the least.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by WaltM
        I have the same problem. It starts up quiet and gets louder when it gets warm. My buddy thinks it's the top pulley.Let me know how you make out.
        I got to thinking about this, and I wanted to ask the studio audience:

        What could go wrong with the sprocket(gear) that would make it squeak(or squeal) after the engine is warm?

        I am going to tear this thing apart this weekend. I plan to:
        change the water pump
        change the timing belt
        change out the anti-freeze/coolant
        change the thermostat (180 degrees sound right?)
        possibly change the tensioner..definately will if it's bad)

        Comment


        • #5
          I split this out from the charcoal canister thread -- trying to keep stuff on-topic in the tech catagories.

          The only thing in the cam pulley that could make a squeek is the cam seal.

          the best bet is alternator, water pump,, or the timing tensioner pulley.
          Eric C
          SVOCA Webmaster

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SVOeric
            I split this out from the charcoal canister thread -- trying to keep stuff on-topic in the tech catagories.

            The only thing in the cam pulley that could make a squeek is the cam seal.

            the best bet is alternator, water pump,, or the timing tensioner pulley.
            I ALMOST started a new thread, but wasn't sure.....

            Cam seal, huh? Thanks for the tip.

            I am going to go at this by running the engine until I get the noise, then unhook all the belts and run it again to see if it goes away.

            If it doesn't, off with the timing cover and then rinse and repeat.

            I am really confident that the noise is emminating from inside or near the topof the timing cover. But, investigating will rear that ugly head.

            The good thing is that Advance has all the stuff I need in stock. The bad note on that is they had the waterpumps on sale LAST MONTH!

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok,

              I got the timing cover off, and the noise is coming from the cam sprocket area. The belt is not on concentric to all the pullies, so it only makes the noise when it is out of concentricity and brushing up against the belt guide (Ford's name) behind the cam sprocket.
              With 65,000 miles on this thing, I am going to replace the belt, because I don't think it has ever been done.

              I did a search, and it led me to where someone had a link to a turboford discussion, but the link must be gone now, as I get the "page cannot be displayed" window.

              HOW in the heck do I get the tensioner spring pressure to release? The Ford manual shows a tool (of course), and I can't find one like it at the part stores.

              If someone is feeling ambitious, my cell number is 757.636.6611

              If someone has pics that would be cool too.

              Thanks in advance

              Comment


              • #8
                I just got off the phone with him -- I think he's in good shape now..
                Eric C
                SVOCA Webmaster

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by SVOeric
                  I just got off the phone with him -- I think he's in good shape now..

                  Sooo....you gonna share with the rest of us?
                  "Team Cobra Kai"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    OK ---

                    Loosen the bolt that locks the tensioner, and loosen the bolt that has the spring on it (about 1/2 turn each)

                    Take a pry bar (not the ford specific tool, but it'll do the job) -- prefferably one with a slight curve, and hook it arround the idler pulley. Use the spring that puts the pressure on the idler as a fulcurm, and push the idler in (you will be pushing the end of the pry-bar towards the side of the car with the battery) far enough to release the tension off the belt. Tighten the lock down bolt, and pull the belt out of the way (sometimes called removing the belt)

                    then.. (this is where having a friend is helpful, but not required) put pressure on the tensoiner pulley with the pry bar again(same locations as before), and REMOVE the lock down bolt completly. Now slowly release the pressure on the tensioner until it has none left. Now you can easily remove the bolt with the spring, and the entire tensioner pulley assemblly. -- Simple as pie
                    Eric C
                    SVOCA Webmaster

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'll see if I can get a pic of my pry-bar in the proper position tomorrow.
                      Eric C
                      SVOCA Webmaster

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by NavySVO
                        Ok,

                        I am going to replace the belt, because I don't think it has ever been done.
                        I don't think mine has been done either and my odometer says 82,000, but it could be 182,000 (lol). I had it "visually" inspected and the guy said it was ok. Please keep us in the loop.

                        Walt
                        Walt Mondschein
                        1986 Silver SVO
                        2005 Redfire GT

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by WaltM
                          I don't think mine has been done either and my odometer says 82,000, but it could be 182,000 (lol). I had it "visually" inspected and the guy said it was ok. Please keep us in the loop.

                          Walt
                          Mine looked OK before I took it loose. After closer inspection, the inner part of the belt was severely glazed, it had about 1/2" - 5/8" of side play, and the cam indicator was sitting towards retarded, which Mike Fleming confirmed my thoughts on the phone (he called right after Eric) that, it suggests that the belt is stretched.
                          The belt also didn't start tracking funny until it warmed up, so it is toast.

                          One more thing, the belt may have 65k miles on it, but it has over 20 years life on the car.

                          I am also replacing the idler pulley. For $25.00, it is an easy investment.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by NavySVO
                            Mine looked OK before I took it loose. After closer inspection, the inner part of the belt was severely glazed, it had about 1/2" - 5/8" of side play, and the cam indicator was sitting towards retarded, which Mike Fleming confirmed my thoughts on the phone (he called right after Eric) that, it suggests that the belt is stretched.
                            The belt also didn't start tracking funny until it warmed up, so it is toast.
                            When I thought about it, it all made sense.

                            I don't want to sound too much like a rookie, but how does the cam indicator come into the picture? Would the timing actually retard because of a worn belt?

                            Btw, what replacement belt and pulley did you use? I was looking at Rockauto.com and they a couple of different types available...
                            Last edited by WaltM; 11-07-2005, 06:16 AM.
                            Walt Mondschein
                            1986 Silver SVO
                            2005 Redfire GT

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by WaltM
                              That all makes sense. Btw, what belt and pulley did you use? I was looking at Rockauto.com and they a couple of different types available...
                              I used what they carried, Dayco. They both come with a 1 year warrantee.
                              For as little time as I drive it, that will work out good.

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